Hidden Joburg: The Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helen

For the newest installment in my Hidden Joburg series, I visited a church in Hillbrow that I’ve been curious about for years. The Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helen is around the corner from the Hillbrow Boxing Club, and I have driven, jogged, and walked past it many times. But I didn’t have the opportunity to visit until last week, when Thorsten and I dropped in for the end of the Sunday morning service.

Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helen, Hillbrow — The Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helen is at the corner of Wolmarans and Nugget Streets in Hillbrow.

Hillbrow is considered one of Joburg’s most dangerous neighborhoods, and many of the historic churches and synagogues in the area have closed or moved. There are some notable exceptions though, and Saints Constantine and Helen is one of them. The cathedral, which is more than a century old and the spiritual heart of Joburg’s Greek Orthodox community, is perfectly maintained and still has an active (albeit small) congregation.

Outside the Orthodox Cathedral — Another look at the outside of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral.

Inside the Greek Cathedral — Inside the cathedral after last Sunday’s service.

Inside the Greek Orthodox Cathedral — It’s surprisingly hard to capture the interior in pictures, as the chandeliers get in the way of the paintings on the walls and ceiling. But it’s dazzling.

Cathedral pulpit — A closer view of the pulpit and the iconostasis, a screen that separates the nave from the sanctuary.

Dome of Greek Orthodox Cathedral — The paintings in the dome portray Jesus surrounded by the first four apostles: Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. This photo doesn’t properly convey the size of the dome; it’s massive, supported by four pendentives that basically hold the whole place up.

The only shot I could get of the stunning Virgin Mary painting above the pulpit. The paintings on either side of Mary portray Saints Constantine and Helen.

Cathedral sketch by the Thinking Hand — A lovely cathedral sketch by Thorsten, a.k.a. @thethinking_hand.

History of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral

Joburg has always had a significant population of Greek immigrants, who founded the Hellenic Community here in 1908. Saints Constantine and Helen, named for Constantine the Great and his mother, Saint Helen, was designed in the Byzantine style by architect Hermann Kallenbach (best known for his close friendship to Mahatma Gandhi). The church opened in 1913 and became a cathedral in 1927. Kallenbach designed the church to resemble the great Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, although Saints Constantine and Helen is only a fraction of the Hagia Sophia’s size.

Painting in pulpit of Greek Cathedral — This gold painting, together with its twin on the other side of the iconostasis, was brought from Greece when the church was first built. They are very old, priceless artifacts.

Heritage plaque at Saints Constantine and Helen — The cathedral has a QR code! I love that.

Rev. George Kokonas, Vicar of Saints Constantine and Helen, is an 83-year-old dynamo who has been running the cathedral for more than 40 years.

Father George and parishoner — Father George and one of his parishioners.

Father George has lived in Joburg since 1964 and speaks with a heavy Greek accent – most of the services in the cathedral are conducted in Greek. Father George is extremely welcoming to visitors and even invited me to take a photo with him in the pulpit.

Heather and Father George — Father George and me. (Photo: Alex Rawlings)

We weren’t there for the entire service but it was beautiful, with an incredible choir chanting throughout. After the service we stopped in to the Hellenic Cultural Centre, a very interesting mid-century building next door, for tea and cake.

Hellenic Cultural Centre in Hillbrow — The Hellenic Cultural Centre.

Wall inside the Hellenic Cultural Centre — I love this wall sculpture inside the centre.

Our visit to Saints Constantine and Helen was short but fascinating. Thanks to Alex Rawlings, a friend I randomly met on Instagram who also has a great interest in the cathedral, for arranging it. Father George and his congregation seem quite open to visitors so please send me a message if you’re interested.

I’ve now visited 19 of the places featured in the Hidden Johannesburg book. Only nine to go! Browse all of my posts about Hidden Joburg places here.

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Hidden Joburg: The Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helen

History of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral

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