After our recent stay in Suurbraak, Thorsten and I had a weekend to kill in the Overberg before flying back to Joburg. We decided to spend two nights in Greyton, about 90 minutes from Cape Town, where neither of us had been before. We also made an afternoon detour to Malgas for lunch and a wine tasting at Sijnn Wines.
This part of South Africa has a magical quality to it, kind of like being inside a fantasy novel.
The road to Greyton, which crosses over the romantically named Riviersonderend ("river without end" in Afrikaans).The Riviersonderend.
Greyton
Greyton is a very small town with a few thousand people. But after three days in Suurbraak it felt like a big city, with lots of shops, restaurants, and facilities for tourists. Greyton has an English village vibe with hundreds of oak trees, waist-high walls, and thatched, white-washed cottages with big gardens behind them.
We stayed in one of those thatched houses, in an Airbnb called Rosewood.
The house where we stayed, complete with stunning autumn foliage. The owners live on the ground floor and we stayed in the attic apartment.
I do recommend Rosewood – find the Airbnb listing here – but be aware that the bathtub is wedged under the sloping roof in a way that makes it kind of hard to actually bathe. Otherwise we loved it.
The Rosewood master bedroom.The weird (albeit cute) bathroom.
We spent most of our time in Greyton hiking and walking around town. The town is basically surrounded by the Greyton Nature Reserve and we took two nice hikes there: The three-kilometer Platkloof Walk and the seven-kilometer Gifkloof Trail. (Read more about Greyton’s walking trails.) Here are some photos from our hikes:
It’s a short walk from Greyton’s town center to the nature reserve. We passed several horses along the way.An architectural Greyton sketch by @theThinking_Hand.A glimpse of the ridiculously beautiful Riviersonderend Mountains on our way to the nature reserve.More views on the way to the reserve.The light on the mountains couldn’t have been more perfect as we started the Platkloof Walk. In the foreground is a glorious field of protea flowers.Insane.Thorsten’s interpretation of the Riviersonderend Mountains.There is a lovely waterfall on the Platkloof Walk.We were fascinated by this parasitic indigenous plant, called dodder, which was all over the trail. Dodder strangles other plants until they die, then eventually dies itself once it runs out of plants to kill, and then the other plants grow back and the cycle starts all over again.Hanging out with my protea friends (Photo: Thorsten Deckler)I didn’t take as many photos of the Gifkloof Trail, which we walked in the early afternoon when the light wasn’t as nice. But the views on this trail were also stunning.
We hiked for almost the whole day and saw only two other people.
In addition to hiking, we enjoyed browsing Greyton’s popular Saturday Morning Market. We also had two nice meals in Greyton: one at Abbey Rose (tasty but very rich South African dishes,) and one at the Old Potter’s Inn (brew pub with very good beer and burgers). All in all Greyton was a great weekend getaway – perfect for Capetonians who can get there in less than two hours.
Sijnn Wines (Malgas)
Malgas is a tiny little settlement best known for its hand-drawn pontoon ferry that carries one car at a time over the Breede River. We didn’t get to see or use the ferry, unfortunately, but we did enjoy some really great wine and Malgas scenery at Sijnn Wines.
Looking down on the Breede River from Sijnn Wines. Sijnn is the Khoisan word for riverbank.The winery at Sijnn – designed by the owner, David Trafford, who also trained as an architect – is built using stone from the surrounding fields.Wine with a view. Sijnn’s winemaker, Charla Haasbroek, makes incredible white and red blends using some really unusual grapes. We also devoured a delicious charcuterie plate.Boet, one of two handsome gingers living the feline life at Sijnn.Sketching with a happy cat in his lap.Wow, I want to be back there.
And that, sadly, is the end of our Overberg roadtrip.
I guess it’s wrong to say I’ve never blogged about 44 Stanley; I’ve mentioned it countless times over the years (see here and here) when writing about specific restaurants or shops that are there. But I’ve never written a dedicated post about 44 Stanley as a destination and it’s about time I did – especially now, with the holidays upon us.
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